Forward-thinking winemakers from Beaujolais are blazing their own trails
06/11/2009, Packaging Europe
With the 2009 harvest in Beaujolais looking to be one of the best in recent history, these innovative producers represent the bright future of the region's wines, which extends far beyond Nouveau. Recognized by their peers for their dedication to the craft and respect for terroir, these gifted winemakers are, one by one, changing the face of Beaujolais through their unique approaches and progressive attitudes towards the art of winemaking. Here are some of the region's rising stars:
Perhaps the youngest emerging talent from the region, 29-year old Marie-Elodie Zighera is already garnering praise for the first vintages from her Fleurie estate, Clos de Mez, which began in 2006. Splitting time between her vineyards in Fleurie, Morgon, and her house in Burgundy, Marie-Elodie's main objective is to make a wine in the traditional Beaujolais style: "a solid, haute-couture wine that has the potential to age well," she said.
Presently concentrating on the vines and winemaking, she is still defining her sales strategy: "I still have plenty of things to learn. I want to be proud of what I do and surprise myself."
Unlike Marie-Elodie, Jean-Marc Lafont is not new to Beaujolais or to wine, in general. Reared by hard working parents in the business, Jean-Marc sold his first case of wine at the age of 12! Unique in that he is both a winemaker and negociant, Jean-Marc's principal objective is to buy, sell, and produce wines of parallel quality, which equal approximately 160,000 bottles from 25 different cuvees in production. He has worked diligently to perfect his global business through an ultra-modernized cellar and a professional administrative operation, while simultaneously improving the quality of his wines. With plans to produce biodynamic wines on the horizon, Jean-Marc maintains a simple philosophy: at the end of the day, wine is meant for sharing pleasurable moments with friends.
While others are beginning to dabble in the production of biodynamic wines, it has been a passion of Jean-Claude Lapalu's for years. In 2007, eleven years after his first vintage, he officially left the co-op system behind.
And, with this newfound sense of freedom, Jean-Claude made the decision to produce all his wines--in Beaujolais-Villages, Brouilly, and Cote de Brouilly--as naturally as possible and to convert his estate in Saint-Etienne-la-Varenne to biodynamic. Working as a chef before he returned to the vineyard in 1983, Jean-Claude knew he wanted to make wine but wasn't sure what type. Eventually, he found his way: natural wines. He limits the use of sulfur, works with indigenous yeasts, and macerates the grapes longer to achieve full extraction and complexity. His next project on the horizon is exploring the cultivation of other varietals.
Another winemaker who has been exploring growing grapes other than gamay is Vincent Audras. In 2010, he will produce his first cuvee of viognier, a grape varietal that is not typically produced in the region. However, that is only one experiment that sets Vincent apart; in 1994, he signed an official, experimental protocol - which lasts through 2018 - to utilize the lyre vine trellis system in his domaine, Clos de Haute-Combe. He is the only winemaker in Beaujolais to vinify more than an acre of planted and cultivated gamay according to this system. He has chosen this unconventional method because it produces spicier wines with green pepper notes and is more logical given the hilly slopes of the vineyard, which are difficult and often dangerous to work. Vincent has been a longtime proponent of wine tourism in Beaujolais as well as one of the founders of the first winemakers association in the region, which collectively increases the business of its members.
Known throughout the world for being a forward-thinking innovator, Jean-Charles Boisset, vice president of The Boisset Group and son of Jean-Claude Boisset, has led the way in creating environmentally friendly alternative wine packaging. His latest invention is a 100% recyclable, aluminum container of wine, made in Brouilly under the Mommessin brand name.
Jean-Charles seeks to bring more practicality and value to wine drinkers everywhere with both the Boisset Group wines and those from his family's estate. His pioneering efforts in alternative packaging have reinvigorated the image of Beaujolais wines, attracted new consumers, and reduced the company's CO2 footprint.
Another winemaker who comes from a family deeply rooted in Beaujolais is Mathieu Lapierre. Working alongside his father Marcel, a longtime producer in the region and advocate of natural wines, Mathieu co-manages the family's Morgon domaine, one of the most renowned in Beaujolais, with an eye towards the future. After working as a chef and living in Canada, Mathieu returned to Villie-Morgon in 2005 to work with his father. He is making his own mark on the family business by using modern technology to its advantage: he has created a Web site through which he maintains contact with clients and communicates the domaine's efforts towards converting to biodynamic practices. Mathieu is also a member of The Association of Natural Wines which brings together like-minded artisan winemakers.
More info:www.beaujolais.com
